Aunty Emma shares:
I ka wā mua makaʻala ʻia nā hōʻailona o ka ʻāina e ka poʻe no ka mea ma mua o ko lākou hele ʻana i ka lawaiʻa paha, ka huli holoholona mea ʻiʻo ʻai a i ʻole i ke kanu ʻana o nā meakanu e like me ka ʻuala, ka maiʻa, ua nānā lākou, nā poʻe kūpuna, i nā hōʻailona. "In the time before, the signs of the lands were watched by the people, because they wanted a forecast before they went fishing, hunting, or planting sweet potato, banana and they looked for signs, the ancestors." Thus, to understand Kalapana, it must be grounded in the knowledge of our ancestors, which is embodied by natural forces and presences such as the rains, winds, and lāʻau of this place. Kauhi, Emma, and Charles Langals. 1996.He Mo’olelo No Kapa’ahau. Kapa’ahau, Puna.
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Mahina Kūlua
Kīkala Ahupua'a "Today we were blessed with some cloud cover so it wasn't too hot. I remember stopping for a second and listening to the bird that was singing in the tree branches while the wind whistled through the tree leaves to my right and to my left I could hear the sound of the ocean. While walking along the cliffs we walked past some noio birds that were hovering above our heads on the wind that blows on the sea cliffs edge. The boulders below were pink and you could tell this coastline is older lava. We also saw a cute little he'e Pali that was sitting in a little crevice on one of the boulders and slowly making its way back into the water." -M.K. "In my past days of walking this coastline it took me until now to realize that the noio (brown noddy) have a prevalent population down here. They are a seabird species found throughout the pae ʻāina from the main eight upto Papahānaumokuākea. They were used by navigators because they usually traveled closed to land. The limu I noticed seem to have more species on the older lava from Kaimū to Kēōkea than that of Kalpana toward the National Park. I also notice that as we go pass Kaimū towards Pohoiki there is a lot more ʻōhiʻa lehua. I know the reason is because the last lava flow in Kalapana was in 2017. However, it is still amazing to see these trees a Kinolau of Laka, a favorite of Hiʻiakaikapoliopele thrive in a place with a lot of salinity in the air." -K.G. Kalapana Ahupua'a
Mahina Pō Muku "Today was a beautiful day. We hiked out to the coastline cliffs. Most of the lava we were walking on today was from the 2017 lava flow and the cliffs were extra high. When we peeked over the cliffs we saw a big school of what looked like enenue fish cruising in the beautiful water below. As we continued along the coast, it was unsettling to see how much fishing line was left tangled in the rocks where we were walking so we picked it up. There was even a daad sea bird dangling on a fishing line left on the cliff side. The coastline was alive as always, and the water tempting as ever. Walking on hot lava in the summer sun really makes me want to jump into the water sometimes or wish I was a fish so I could swim all day." -M.K. "Today we went to a different side of Kalapana closer to the National Park. It was another day of being in awe at the creation Pele formed. It was the first time I saw the hair of Pele (volcanic glass) in layers up to a foot in depth.On top of that, the cracks within the lava were enticingly treacherous. As much as you wanted to see how far it went down there, this lava flow from 2017 is very brittle in a lot of areas. The truth is, through out these weeks, seeing all of this nature existing in perfect harmony is because there is not a heavy human presence. The schools of enenue from 60 feet up looked had at least 30 plus strong. Comparing this to Pu'u Maile or 4 miles, pretty much unseen. I guess the question is how do we get our environment back to the perfect example which is the Kalpana coastline?" -K.G. Mahina Pō Lono
Ahupuaʻa: Kalapana-Kaimū "We were off to an early start this morning. The peak of low tide was at 7 am. On our walk out to the cliffs I was easily distracted by the beautiful morning sun rays that were peeking through the thick white clouds. It was also raining out over the ocean and the wind blew the rain in directions opposite of each other, the rain was falling in what looked like an x in the sky before the fresh drops of water met the salty ocean below. Looking along the coastline, the sun's rays hit the spray of the sea mist just right and the coast was caressed in a blanket of sea mist. As the sea waves would rise and fall, you could see small reef fish chilling out by the big boulders in the water." -M.K. "Very interesting things to see on the terrain at low tide. Seeing how far the boulders actually extend out into the ocean was baffling. I learned there is always new boulders falling off from the cliffside during small earthquakes. Meaning this place will always be growing and changing. On top of that we came out specifically to do more water testing. Hoping that at a low tide we can find more evidence of freshwater, other than natural signs (like limu ʻeleʻele) just to see the chemistry in the water. This would help in determining why one side of Kalapana would have more species of limu than the other." -K. G. Mahina ʻolepau
@Kēōkea ma Keauʻohana a me Kehena ahupuaʻa "It was a beautiful day today. A short hike through some ironwood trees revealed the shoreline. The cliffs are much smaller here, you can easily identify the Limu growing on the pink boulders. There were sand pockets along the cliffs where the ocean waves could reach and ʻaʻama crabs everywhere, too many little legs to count before they retreated out of sight. Waves crashed against the cliff side, spraying a mist of salt water that blankets the hot pāhoehoe that has been absorbing heat from the summer sun all day. Then, in almost an instant rain clouds gathered and it started to rain lightly. With the rain and clouds, came the wind, and the waves began to change." -M.K. "The ʻOle moon phases are said to be times of terrible fishing, as well as poor harvesting of crops. These moon phases represent the final lunar phases of the month. Kahuna dedicated these three days (ʻOlekūkahi, ʻOlekūlua, ʻOlepau) to Kanaloa. However, Kanaloa is more than akua of the ocean. He is the deep dark spaces that don't necessarily deal with just the ocean. Usually associated with Kāne, his ʻawa drinking partner, Kanaloa is the dark to Kāne, the light. On this ʻolepau while we were walking the papa, you could really see that remarkable darkness Kanaloa can portray in the ocean. The overcast skies with held the shine of Kāne really exaggerating this feeling. Considering these moons are dedicated to the praise of Kanaloa it is spell-binding seeing him in this state. It is times like this that remind me of my humility as a mere kanaka in the presence of a great energy like Kanaloa. The lesson for me today is not see dark things as threatening, but to remember what these energies are and who inhabits these realms." -K.G. "This is the first spot that I have noticed Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death in along this stretch of coastline." -G.M Mahina: Pō Lāʻaupau
"Today was a beautiful day. We met at 10 am to catch 0 ft low tide at 11:30 am. We were testing the ocean water along the coast. The coast is alive and abundant with life. The pōhaku were filled with limu, the tide pools home to puhis and baby fish and the ocean visible enough to see bigger fish below and hungry honus. I've never been so intrigued while observing a coastline. Kō'eles that made my tastebuds tingle, limu that caught my attention every time I looked below the cliffs and hā'uke'uke that made me think of my mom because she loves to eat hā'uke'uke. And we can't forget about the curious puhis who pop their heads out of the pukas in the ponds." -M.K. "We came out today with a different game plan as to how we will do water salinity and temperature testing. Even though we are literally next to the ocean there is always a a different challenge when we are getting water to test. It is challenging and at the same time still a great opportunity to learn even more about this amazing coast line. Todays low tide showed us may of the creatures that are hidden from us when it is high. Even though we waled this before it is remarkable you always find something new each time." -K.G. Mahina: Pō Mahealani
"Today was unbelievably clear from the sky to the ocean. I am blessed to be with kamaʻāina from this ahupuaʻa. Today I was humbled to learn new things about limu from Dr. Karla McDermid. She has showed amazing ʻike to us, and I personally love that it is in the field and not in a classroom. Even as we went to our Kalapana ahupua'a the tranquility of the weather was beyond comparison to the previous days we have been down here. The clarity to which we could see the fish swimming from a top 60 feet on these cliffs is mind blowing. The life on these cliffs reflect the ocean correspondingly. It might be the hottest place at some moments but to be surrounded by resilient resources as well as astounding views will be etched in my mind forever. " -K. G. "This morning we were on a limu mission. We all met at 8 am to catch low tide at 8:30 am. It was a great day today, the limu was exposed in the Pu'ilima tide pools and the ocean was calm. There were hon of many sizes eating limu off of the rocks below the water and floating to the surface to breathe, leaving their shells exposed before they swam back under to feast. There were so many different kinds of limu, unique in their own ways. Limu of many shapes and colors that grow and thrive along this coastline in tide pools and on pōhaku among an abundance of 'opihi and baby fish who find refuge in these tide pools with limu." -M.K. Mahina Pō Hua
-walking from Black Sands community, Kaimū towards Kīkala "As we walked through the brush to get to the water, I remember all the memories under the low milo tree grove. The big boulders mixed with 'ili'ili pebbles, sitting on the shore and strong as ever. In union they sit under the sun waiting to be washed by the cool, salty water as the tide rises and the waves get bigger. Under the big milo trees stand baby milo trees, perfectly sheltered by their parents' canopy. It's nice and hot today and as we walk along the cliffs I stop to feel the pa'akai that has dried up in little pukas in the pāhoehoe above the cliffs." -M.K. "In all my experiences of tidepools on Oʻahu, I have never been to one that holds so much diversity and life until I came to Hawaiʻi island. It is a refreshing feeling to see tidepools that are still healthy and full of traditional limu that our kūpuna used in their everyday lives. The treacherous walks across the ʻaʻā protects these resources fiercely. One wrong step can potentially be a fatal move on this coast line. It is as if natures knows that it needs to create these barriers to keep these resources alive. The limu kala, limu ʻakiʻaki and even limu kohu are all prevalent. Something regrettably I have never seen back home. I hope I never live to see these resources vanish from this wahi pana." -K.G. Mahina: Pō Kūpau
Ahapuaʻa: Kalapana "Today I remember seeing blue uhh fish again, just swimming below the cliff. I watched in awe as they swam so freely, tempting me to join them in the clear, cool water to escape the heat of the sun. I sat one the pāhoehoe rock above to listen to the waves crash against the rocks and watch the water rush through the little ili ili pebbles in the small beach below. The naupaka crawls at the cliffs edge overlooking the ocean boulders below that are abundard with baby 'opine, ha'uke'uke, and limu." -M.K. "The walk across the pāhoehoe seemed to give me energy as we made our way to the coast. The mist from Kanaloa slowly shaping the foundation Pele has created drives my excitement and curiosity as we start to observe the coastal life in this new area. It is amazing to see life prevail in harsh environment. The limu we got samples of today tasted different even though we collected them from the same area. One was also a lot easier to ʻohi than the other. The concentration of haʻukeʻuke was greater in my kilo, however they were smaller in size. The kaunaʻoa pehu seemed to once have a predominant hold over the waiawī but are now dying. I wonder if it is because the days are getting longer as the summer solstice is right around the bend." -K.G. Muku moon
@ Kīkala ahupua'a ma Kehena "Some more blessings of ua. We saw a lot of birds today. There was an 'iwa that was constantly visiting us. Here, along the coastline, I mostly see naupaka, mau'u aki'aki grass, and Hilo bunch grass. The 'Iwa bird always reminds me of rain or as a warning that a storm is coming. Naupaka reminds me of the mo'olelo of naupaka, of the love between Naupaka and Kai forever separated by lava. The waves crash against the cliff's side and spray a salty mist. It's coastlines like this that remind me of mo'olelo." -Mini Keli'iho'omalu "Through a side trail we are guided by ohiʻa until we are at the coast. The breeze, smell, and taste of the salt in the air is the same as Kalapana ahupua'a. The terrain is what changed. From pāhoehoe to ʻaʻā, even in the movement of the ocean. As our elevation declines the landscape from our akua convey their other physical attributes. The strength of the water crashing on the rocks is constant. Though there is still a phenomenal presence of life, I cant help but wonder why there is less limu. The concentration of limu was recognizable from a top the cliffs at our previous site." -Ka'ehukai Goin Po'ālua (Lā 7, Iune, 2021)
Mahina: Kāne Ahupuaʻa: Kalapana Amazing to see life being reborn through blanket of Pele as she extends our ʻāina. The amount of Limu growing, alongside the presence of Pipipi Kōlea and Pipipi show proof of a healthy kai hele kū system. Each bay that we rested at seemed to have large blue uhu. I did not see many coral heads or coral structures. The coast line is mostly pahoehoe and pōhaku nui. -GKG Today started off with the blessing of some ua and we were lucky to have some cloud cover on the walk in Kalapana. I was taught to recognize our blessings as hō'ailona and to always be aware and appreciate them. Recognizing hō'ailona teaches you to be more observant and to realize what is happening around you. Whether it be the rain or the uhh fish that swims below, these are signs that I recognize and am grateful to have seen today. -KMK Just east of Kaimū, ~3:30 PM
Low tide but small tide pools still ~ 8 inches deep with water. Steady wind coming from the east in soft bursts. Waves around 3 ft tall, large salt spray, white wash hitting rocks. Small baby fish/ crabs in tide pools Whispy, ao pua'a clouds, dark grey cloud of rain off to the east. Small, short bursts of intent rain brought laughter and feelings of joy through out the afternoon. -G.M. Photo below: looking ma Ka'ū, towards Kaimū ~ 5:30 PM 3:30 PM Waves start to pick up, kupeʻe with hermits inside in tide pools, size: little bigger than quarter. Wind blowing on shore (west-way), tide yet to go down, muggy (rain clouds low), rainbows. Mahina up at around 9:00 degrees Marine life and seaweeds abundant. 5:18 PM Off an on rains, waves calmed down: smaller Slight wind on and off shores, calm waves. High white gusty clouds, low grey clumpy clouds. Tide has lowered. Mahina is up around 10:30 degrees. -C.K. Kīkala:
wind coming from east, choppy surf, noni fruiting and flowering, naupaka flowering, pukiawe fruiting, rain comes sideways, from the east, noio nesting. Kaimū tidepools: large loli, white spotted sea cucumber (Actinopyga mauritiana) in center of tide pool Limu Kala, (Sargassum echinocarpum) floating, de-rooted -G.M. Aloha e,
Aloha e, Me ha haʻahaʻa e, Aoha e Kalapana nui e, Na Kahakai pepaio lāʻau e, Mai Punaluʻu iā Waipuke e. Aloha e na ʻāina makua paepae e. E na ʻaumakua ʻāina noho e. Aloha e. Kāhea e na ua Kualau ʻōhua e, Kāhea e ka makani hoʻoulu e, Kāhe e ka wā kai make e, kāhea e, Kāhea e ka naiʻa ma Hilo e, Kāhea e na mauʻu akiaki o kiaʻi ma limu akiaki e. Aloha e. Me ka haʻahaʻa e, Na moʻo o ka ʻāina, ke Kāloa a me palihākui e. Mai Hakuma iā Hauaʻe e. Me ka haʻahaʻa e. Lohe e ō mai nā kūpuna mai e. A e lohe mai ana ka iʻa e. A e lohe mai ana ka honua e. A e lohe mai ana ke kai e. Aloha e. Aloha e. -Composed by G.M. Feeling blessed to have spent the day with a kupuna, with moʻolelo of fishing and gathering, of cultural sites and the limu and iʻa living among the wave-pounded rocks below. Just as we left we were blessed with the ʻōʻiliʻili maka akua-- in the middle of a hot, sunny day. Mahalo nui e ke Akua mana loa.
Photo below taken at Kīkala cliff line. Sun beaming. Lower clouds closer to the ocean. Blue skies above. Strong consistent wind coming from north-east. Little bit of rain clouds. Noio birds flying near cliffs (at least three). Low tide, can see limu growing ok on the cliff. Wind was both on ocean and land (9:55 AM).
Less wind. Still blowing from the north-east. Overcast with light drizzle. Gray clouds with rain over the ocean. Slight pick up in waves (10:55 AM). Waves picked up, less wind on land. More wind on ocean. Overcast. -C.K. |
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